More taphophilia! This time in search of Constantin Heger's grave in Brussels.

Constantin Heger's Grave

     

Charlotte Bronte

Constantin Heger

Whilst on a wonderful four day visit to Brussels in October 2024, where I had the pleasure of delivering a talk to the Brussels Bronte Group, I had two places on my 'to do' list to visit. Having already spent a long weekend on the Bronte trail in Brussels in May 2018, I hadn't managed to get to these two Bronte-related sites. The first was to visit the grave of Constantin Heger and the second was to pop down to the Waterloo battlefield as Patrick Bronte had done in 1842 after he had dropped his daughters Charlotte and Emily off at Monsieur and Madame Heger's boarding school, the Pensionnat Heger on the Rue d' Isabelle.

This year has been one in which I have already visited several Bronte-related graves! It's what we taphophiles do in our free time! In June 2024 I went in search of Margaret Wooler's grave with my Tipperary, Ireland friend Eileen Prunty at St Peter's Church in Birstall near Leeds. You can read about this adventure here: Margaret Wooler's grave

In May I was with another fabulous Bronte friend Liliana Pasterska, the author of a pamphlet of poetry about Anne Bronte called 'The Third Sister Speaks' and also of a new pamphlet of poems about Emily Bronte called 'Living the Loss' due to be published in early 2025. Liliana and I went to pay our respects to William Smith Williams at his grave in Kensal Green Cemetery in west London. You can read about this visit here: Kensal Green Cemetery

 William was the Reader at the publishers Smith Elder & Co and he was the one who recommended that George Smith, his boss, should read and publish Jane Eyre.

Liliana's wonderful pamphlet of poetry about Anne Bronte

Galerie Royale Saint-Hubert

Now, as I was back in Brussels enjoying lunch in a cafe in the wonderful Galerie Royale Saint-Hubert, I announced to some of the Brussels Bronte Group  that I wished to go and find and visit Constantin Heger's grave.

Helen MacEwan's fabulous book 'The Brontes in Brussels'

                                             

 Having studied Helen MacEwan's excellent book called 'The Brontes in Brussels' (Helen is a founder member of the Brussels Bronte group) I knew the cemetery was on the outskirts of Brussels in the Watermael-Boitsfort municipal cemetery on Rue du Buis 57 on the edge of the Foret de Soignes.

One of the group kindly did a bit of research and said I could catch the number 95 bus from near to the Grand Place and walk to the cemetery. But with rain forecast, and not wishing to waste precious time waiting for buses and hoping to alight at the correct bus stop and then having to find the cemetery, I said I'd hop in a taxi. Helen decided she would accompany me and asked if there were two more takers to fill the taxi which there were! The four of us were now on a mission!

We met the taxi outside and, after crawling through the centre, we drove out along a rather grand avenue with lots of large houses many of which are embassies. We passed the Foret of Soignes which Napoleon and Wellington would have known at the time of the Battle of Waterloo and were deposited right outside the gates of the cemetery.  

When hunting for a grave it is always worthwhile studying beforehand what the grave looks like if you have a photo to hand and be aware of other landmarks or distinctive graves nearby. Helen had put a photo in her book and, after studying it, I said we needed to look for a sloping gravestone, with two obelisk-type of gravestones nearby, one with a cross on top and two white, small, square buildings with grey slate roofs behind the grave. It shouldn't be difficult! 

We walked through the gates and looked around, finding the white buildings first, then we saw the sloping tomb and the two obelisk stones nearby. It took us one minute to find him! In Kensal Green Cemetery, which is huge, Liliana and I had to get someone to help us find William Smith Williams! 

We stood by Constantin's grave which he shares with his wife Zoe Claire and one of his daughters Maria. I always chat to the incumbent of the grave! I told him how much Charlotte had been in love / besotted with him and thanked him for being who he was as he had definitely had a lasting effect on Charlotte and probably made her novel writing all the more intense and rich because of their friendship and pupil/teacher relationship.

The sloping grave

                                 

Three taphophiles - Helen, Sheila and Ann!  

                          

I then recalled that I had some lavender seeds in my purse from an event in May when, at Anne Bronte's grave in Scarborough, we had been given a handful of lavender seeds that had been gathered from some lavender plants grown in the Haworth parsonage garden to scatter on Anne's grave. I decided to plant a few on Monsieur Heger's grave. There was some lavender growing on an adjacent grave so, who knows, that might self-seed and spread to his grave, or the Haworth parsonage seeds may take and grow. I left a little of Haworth on his grave which I think Charlotte would have liked, but maybe Madame Heger might think otherwise?

As the forecast rain began to fall, we hopped back in the taxi, some to be delivered to a train station and then home and me to return to Brussels centre where I went into the church where Monsieur and Madame Heger and family used to worship, the neoclassical church of Saint Jacques sur Coudenberg, with its impressive cupola and pillared portico. Helen's book also tells us that Leopold I, the first King of the Belgians, was invested in this church on 21 July 1831.

The Heger's church: St- Jacques sur Coudenburg

                                       

                                 

The pillared portico with a wedding taking place

                                                                       

Inside the church where the Hegers worshipped

                                                         

The cupola 

                                                       

The Heger family painted by Ange Francois. Constantin is on the left and his wife Clare is surrounded by their children.

I then felt it appropriate, given I was thinking of Charlotte and Constantin, to pop into the wonderful gothic cathedral Saint Gudule where Charlotte had gone into a confession box and confessed to a Catholic priest on 1 September 1843 when she was feeling very lonely and depressed in the long summer holiday when she was practically all on her own in the Pensionnat. She wrote to tell Emily about this on 2nd September and also included this experience writing about it in chapter 15 of 'Villette'. It is lovely to visit these places and think of the people who came before us and try and understand the emotions they were feeling at the time.

Saint Gudule Cathedral Brussels

Saint Gudule Cathedral

The second confession box on the left

Is this the confession box Charlotte used on 1st September 1843?

 

 

Climbing into the porch room - Tunstall Church

St John the Baptist Church, Tunstall

On a rare, blue-sky, English summer day, my husband and I set off to Tunstall in Lancashire to be at the church of St John the Baptist for 11.00a.m. Having made earlier enquiries with the church warden, we had been informed that one of their team would be in the church doing some jobs at that time, and he would be more than happy to help us achieve our mission which was to gain entry to the room above the church's porch where the Bronte sisters - Maria, Elizabeth and then Charlotte and Emily would have all had their lunch in between the Sunday morning service and the afternoon service when they used to walk the two and a half miles each way every Sunday, in all weathers, to attend both church services from their boarding school at Cowan Bridge. (Charlotte calculated it as a two mile walk.)  Maria aged ten and Elizabeth aged eight were enrolled at the school on 21st July 1824. Charlotte was enrolled aged eight on 10th August 1824 and Emily came along later being enrolled on 25th November 1824 aged just six.

The porch at Tunstall Church with the small window in the porch room above it. 

Standing at Tunstall Church entrance.

The founder of their school was the Reverend William Carus Wilson who was also the vicar at St John the Baptist Church in Tunstall from 18th April 1816 until his resignation in 1828.

The Reverend William Carus Wilson possibly the man Charlotte modelled Mr Brocklehurst on - the autocratic head of Lowood School.

The four Bronte sisters all attended the 'School for Clergymens' Daughters' as it was advertised in the 'Leeds Intelligencer' on 4th December 1823. The school was the one that went on to be associated with Lowood School in Charlotte Bronte's novel Jane Eyre, with Tunstall church being called Brocklebridge Church.

When we arrived at the church the warden had kindly opened the door to the porch room and I knew the only way up into it was to climb the vertical ladder bolted to the wall. 

The ladder bolted to the church wall at the porch door leading to the porch room above.

The ladder by the porch door.

Another lady climbing the ladder from an article in an exhibition in the church

For someone still with the remnants of vertigo to deal with, this was one of those grit your teeth and be careful moments. My husband, with mountain-goat propensities, easily climbed the ladder and ducked through the door hanging above the church's porch door giving me a cheerful wave. 

My husband in the porch room doorway.

A fearless wave!

Next it was my turn to climb the ladder and be guided off the ladder at the top onto the ledge and into the porch room. One mis-step and I would have crashed down to the stone-flagged floor below.

Telling myself just to go slowly, concentrate and obey my husband's instructions about where best to place my feet and hands, I made it into the room. I think my heart rate was slightly elevated!

My turn next!

The room is fairly small with one leaded window for light and slim wooden beams on the ceiling. A storage cupboard housing the electricity box is now up there. 

The door is fairly small

The ceiling has slim beams on it.

A small leaded window lets light and air in. The mannequin in a bonnet is used by the church if they have an exhibition. The church occasionally organises Brontë events including guided walks between Cowan Bridge school and the church with tea and cakes served in the porch room for which they erect a temporary staircase. The funds raised are to help maintain the church. 

We thought about the Bronte sisters sitting in the room with their school fellows eating their lunch. Here is what Charlotte wrote in Jane Eyre:

 Sundays were dreary days in that wintry season. We had to walk two miles to Brocklebridge Church, where our patron officiated. We set out cold, we arrived at church colder: during the morning service we became almost paralysed. It was too far to return to dinner, and an    allowance of cold meat and bread, in the same penurious proportion observed in our ordinary meals, was served round between the services.

A video to show the porch room interior.

After photographing and videoing the room, my husband deftly swung himself back onto the ladder but kindly only descended a few rungs to be able to guide me back onto the ladder to descend. Holding on for grim death, and not looking down at the distance to the floor below, slowly but surely I got back to terra firma.

We got chatting to the wife of the warden who had arrived and I asked if she knew how the school children might have got into the room above the porch. It would have been very dangerous for young ladies, some as young as six years of age, as Emily was when she attended Cowan Bridge, to climb a vertical ladder in their long dresses and swing themselves into the room. They might have also been wearing pattens too - the wooden outer shoes - which would have made it even more perilous. She said there was probably a gallery there at some time with proper stairs. My husband and I discussed this afterwards and thought maybe the stairs were wooden ones as we couldn't see any evidence in the stone walls of a gallery having been there. Whatever, the reality, it was fascinating to be in the beautiful church and special to be able to gain access to the porch room which is normally locked. 

On a rainy and windy day, we could imagine how cold and damp the school girls would have been after their walk from Cowan Bridge to the church. We also undertook this walk and measured it as two and a half miles on one route (the one we think they would have probably taken) and two and three quarters of a mile on another route we tried. We imagined them sitting shivering in the porch room chewing on their bread and meat. We thought of the children from the age of six years upwards, Charlotte was eight years old at the time, walking the five miles round trip to attend their patron's two Sunday services.

 I wonder if, when Patrick heard the news from his daughters of their long Sunday walks to church at Tunstall, would  he later go on to think about his parishioners living in Stanbury and would he, with Arthur Bell Nicholls, his young Irish curate, decide that it would be easier for them to have their own chapel-of-ease, which both men did indeed go on to raise subscriptions for and eventually build? St Gabriel's opened for their Stanbury parishioners in 1848 to save them having to walk the steep, hilly road to Haworth and maybe his inspiration to help his Stanbury flock living 1.3 miles away came from hearing about his young daughters' Sunday expeditions. Who knows?

St Gabriel’s chapel-of-ease and schoolhouse, Stanbury.

Interior of St Gabriel’s chapel-of-ease and schoolhouse.

Thanks to Arthur Bell Nicholls and Patrick Brontë this chapel and schoolhouse were opened in 1848.

In another post I will write about our walk to and from Cowan Bridge to Tunstall Church. On a beautiful day it is stunning, which even Charlotte acknowledged when writing about the location of Cowan Bridge / Lowood School in Jayne Eyre. However, this will all be for another post. For now here are some photographs of the church’s interior where the Brontë girls and their school friends would have sat. 

St John the Baptist Church, Tunstall interior

The font 

Porch door 

Can you find William Carus Wilson’s name on the vicars of Tunstall list?

The Reverend William Carus Wilson took up his post as vicar of Tunstall on 18th April. 1816

Charlotte Brontë’s Book of Common Prayer in Cambridge University Library.

Charlotte Bronte's Book of Common Prayer

Cambridge University Library Rit.d.775.1  

 I was very much looking forward to meeting up with my French and two Spanish friends in Cambridge, a city they had wished to visit for a long time. Of course, I was also delighted to be able to return to visit Patrick Brontë’s alma mater, having spent a wonderful weekend there in 2018, staying at St John’s College where he studied after arriving from Ireland in 1812 at the age of 25. 

My European friends enjoying a stroll around St John's College, Cambridge 

,

In the summer months, St John’s, like many other universities, opens its doors to the general public, offering excellent B&B facilities. My Brontë travelling companion and I had thoroughly enjoyed our 2018 stay there following very much in the footsteps of the father of the Brontës. You can read my earlier blog post about Cambridge here if you are interested https://mytravelswiththebrontes.blogspot.com/2023/10/cambridge-with-patrick-bronte.html?m=1

Unfortunately, on this occasion, we were unable to stay at St John’s as our dates were unavailable. If you are interested in staying you can book directly via the St John's College website or via a company called University Rooms University Rooms St John's Cambridge B&B

Prior to arriving in Cambridge, I had wondered if there was anything further to do with the Brontës that I had missed on my earlier visit, but nothing came to mind. However, I had read somewhere, but where exactly I cannot recall, that Arthur Bell Nicholls had gifted a Book of Common Prayer to Charlotte in 1849 following the publication of 'Shirley', the novel she had heroically completed following the deaths over nine months of her last three siblings.

I had previously Googled Charlotte’s common book of prayer and came across a post from the Cambridge University Library Special Collections blog. The link to it is here and I’ve also copied it below. https://specialcollections-blog.lib.cam.ac.uk/?p=12485#comment-156971

I 

I sent a message via their blog to enquire if the public could view the prayer book in their collection and was told that I would be very welcome to come to the Special Collections Department to see it. So now I had found another Bronte related activity to enjoy on my return trip to Cambridge!  I did inform them too that Arthur was born in either 1818 or 1819 not 1809 as in their blog post!

To view the book I had to join the library on a temporary one-time membership basis which would allow me a one week membership within the year and is free of charge. I dutifully completed their online form to become a library member and had to upload a photo of myself to go onto my card.

Everything was handled very efficiently and I received an email to say my membership card had been generated and I could collect it from the library reception desk on the day of my arrival but I needed to bring two forms of ID with me, one a photo ID and one a utility bill before they could hand over my card.

The library opens at 9.00a.m. and the Special Collections Department at 9.30a.m. I had emailed the Special Collections Department in advance to say that I wished to see Charlotte Bronte's Book of Common Prayer and the time and date of my visit. I enjoyed a very pleasant email correspondence with Liam Sims, a Rare Book Specialist, who wasn't aware, or had forgotten, that they had Charlotte's prayer book until I enquired, but when he checked, he told me it was printed by J. Roberts, for the Company of Stationers in 1751  and was at the shelfmark Rit.d.775.1 (1). He sent me this link so I could see where it was in their collection of rare books:

https://idiscover.lib.cam.ac.uk/permalink/f/iojq9k/44CAM_ALMA21328264240003606

Liam usefully advised me that there is free parking directly outside the University of Cambridge library which is off West Road, a little out of the centre of Cambridge. 

He said the book would be ready for me to view if I gave him my card code in advance so they could fetch the book for 9.30a.m. when the Special Collections Department opened and told me to grab a cushion as I came in to rest the book on. He said I would be allowed to take photos without flash.

I now had a mission to get to the University of Cambridge library from my Lancashire home at 9.00a.m. but I was also mindful that I had to be at Cambridge train station at 11.30a.m. to meet my European friends who were travelling into London from Paris on the Eurostar that morning and would be hopping on a train from Kings Cross to Cambridge.

To make sure I would arrive at the library for 9.00a.m. I decided to travel down south and stay in a B&B just outside of Cambridge the night before. Early the next morning, after a welcome breakfast, I headed off for the library and got there twenty minutes before the opening time and so parked at the padlocked gate poised to be the first car in! 

The gates opened at 8.55a.m. I was first in the queue!

                                                

Once the gates were opened I parked right outside the grand building and joined a few other early birds who had walked there. At 9.00a.m. the large doors opened and I was the first customer of the day at the desk.

Cambridge University Library.

                                                         

Cambridge University Library

                                                     

                                                  

A novel book drop for when the library is closed.

                                                                

The grand entrance to the library

                                                               

My card was indeed ready and, after showing my ID, I was directed to the Rare Books Department but advised I would need to leave my bag in the locker room. I was told that no ink pens can be taken into the Rare Books section and was given a Cambridge University pencil! I was ready! The journey down had been long and I had completed all of the necessary membership requirements and passed the security checks so I could now climb the sweeping staircase to the first floor.

I loved strolling along the corridors and past shelf after shelf of books. The smell of the books is something I really noticed and liked. The ceilings are inlaid wood and very attractive and there are lots of tables, chairs and armchairs in recesses inviting you to sit down and read - it's a bibliophile's paradise!

I followed my map and was outside the Rare Books Department doors at 9.15a.m.

Waiting for the Rare Books Department to open

                                                                       

Plenty of handy maps.

                                                                     

 With a quarter of an hour still to kill, I pottered about, browsing some book shelves outside. Then at 9.25a.m. with just five minutes to go until I could get to see Arthur Bell Nicholl's thoughtful and kind gift to a lady who had been so sadly bereaved, not once but three times in nine months and who had battled to finish writing her novel 'Shirley,' working through all of her pain and grief, the fire alarm went off. 

I stood in utter disbelief and wondered if it was just a false alarm and hoped a message would be put out to that effect. But no...over the loudspeaker a message was repeated that there was a fire in the building and we must evacuate. This message was repeated and repeated all the way out of the building accompanied by the alarm. The hush of the library was shattered!

University Security Wardens 

                                                                        

The request to evacuate written in many languages just in case visitors could not understand or indeed hear the alarm and message.

                                                  

I couldn't believe it! Everything had gone so well, from my initial contact with the library by email, becoming a temporary member, down to my journey to the university library, arriving with plenty of time to spare and enough time to enjoy viewing the book before going to meet my friends at the train station at 11.30a.m. and suddenly there I was, without my coat and bag standing back outside the library on the steps listening to the alarm and the repeated instruction to leave the building. I had no idea if there was a fire or if it was a false alarm. I was worrying about the loss of all the books if it was a real fire. I was wondering if we would be let back in and how, given my bag was still in the locker, I would be able to get to the train station for 11.30a.m. to meet my friends if we were not!

About twenty long minutes later and, with great relief, we were allowed back into the building and I retraced my steps to the Rare Collection Department. I was the first person in and told the lady at the desk who I was and what I had requested to see. She said the book was indeed ready and I needed to select a cushion from the many on a shelf. But I had no idea which sort of cushion to choose. There were large, medium and small ones, flat and thin ones and plumper ones. She kindly chose a cushion for me and placed Charlotte's Book of Common Prayer on the cushion for me.

                                                           

                                   

A staff member helping me to carefully place the book on the correct cushion.

I stood there slightly aghast and in awe. She then said, if you need to keep a page open and stop it from turning I would need to put the weighted snake on it. I looked confused and she showed me how to gently lay the long cloth-bound weight across the pages to keep the book open. "I am allowed to touch the book and turn the pages?" I asked incredulously and she looked a bit confused and smiled saying, "Yes of course. I will leave you here with the book, please return it to the desk when you have finished".

The weighted clothbound snake to stop the pages from turning

                                                       

A very colourful edition.

                                     

Oh my...I felt quite reverential and it was a very special moment to pick up and hold the very book that the charming and thoughtful Arthur Bell Nicholls had selected, purchased and taken to the Parsonage to give to Charlotte in 1849. To hold the very book that Charlotte had held and turn the pages of the book she had read and which, no doubt, would have given her much solace at a time of great sorrow, was amazing. There I was, holding her book and turning the pages as she had done 177 years earlier!!

Holding Arthur's gift to Charlotte as he had done 177 years earlier

                                                              

I wonder if Charlotte smiled as I am when she received Arthur's gift.

                                                             

Arthur, being Arthur, had not inscribed a message on the flyleaf saying "For Charlotte from Arthur". No, that would not be Arthur's style. He would have gently and quietly gifted her the book - no fanfare and no fuss. Why did he give her the book I wondered? Was it to acknowledge her perseverance and determination on completing her novel' Shirley' which must have been torture on some occasions, as Charlotte had found herself sitting completely alone in the dining room where she had spent many years writing with her sisters? Was it to acknowledge his respect for her courage to push herself to work through her grief and her pain? Was it to support her through her losses and grief - a book of prayer to soothe her sorrows? Probably all of those things and so typical of Arthur.

Was it at this point that Arthur may have started to take notice of Charlotte and the woman she was, a woman of courage, integrity and bravery leading him to eventually fall in love with her? Whatever the reason behind his desire to give her the gift, it shows Arthur as the gentle and considerate man he was.

But for me, the most poignant fact was that it was not Arthur who had inscribed a message on the flyleaf of the book - it was Charlotte who wrote the following in her tiny handwriting:

                                                     

                                                        Charlotte Brontë

                                                                                  Haworth

                                        from Mr. Nicholls on the publication of "Shirley."

Charlotte's small handwriting to record who had given her the book

                                                          

Charlotte recording when she was given the book "on the publication of 'Shirley'

                                                          

She evidently welcomed and appreciated his gift so much that she chose to write the name of the person who had given her the book and the reason why it was given on the flyleaf. Maybe the seed of her future love and admiration for Arthur, who would go on to become her much loved husband on 29th June 1854, was sown on the day he handed her this book. I can imagine him standing there, a tall, well-built man, thirty years of age quietly handing a diminutive lady aged thirty-three his carefully chosen gift. I wonder what she was thinking after he had graciously left the room? I imagine she would have been touched by his kindness and consideration and quite rightly so.

I will leave you with some photos of Arthur’s thoughtful gift to Charlotte.

Charlotte Bronte's Book of Common Prayer

Cambridge University Library Rit.d.775.1

                                                      

                                                                 

                                                                                       


                                                   

Charlotte Bronte's Book of Common Prayer

Cambridge University Library Rit.d.775.1

                                                               



                                                                      

                                                                      

After an eventful visit to the library at Cambridge University I carefully tied up the book with the cloth ribbons and reverentially walked with it to hand it back to the staff. It had been a special time for me. Now it was time to get to Cambridge railway station.

Tying  up Charlotte's Book of Common Prayer with the cloth ribbons

Charlotte Bronte's Book of Common Prayer

Cambridge University Library Rit.d.775.1